Tucked away deep in Albania’s southern internal, I discovered of Permet by means of listening to information of Albania’s emblem new secure space: the Vjosa Wild River Nationwide Park.
Following decade-long force from native teams (and helped by means of the outside clothes emblem Patagonia), the federal government of Albania determined in 2023 to completely offer protection to all of the Vjosa river — from close to its supply in Greece the entire approach 190 kilometers (118 miles) right down to the Albanian coast.
This implies no dams, no trade, no taming the river in anyway. In truth, the Vjosa is one in every of Europe’s closing really wild rivers, flowing freely and undisturbed by way of slender canyons and sweeping bends. The brand new park will make sure it’ll keep that approach, protective its ecosystems and native livelihoods.
Impressed by means of this nature conservation luck tale, I looked for the most productive position to revel in the wild Vjosa river — and all indicators pointed to Permet.
This small town isn’t widely known but, however after visiting I’ve a sense it’ll get started appearing up in additional Albania go back and forth guides. It’s the most productive position to head rafting alongside the Vjosa, you’ll be able to do an epic hike in the course of the canyons of one in every of its tributaries, and experience an unique facet of Albania.
No longer many bloggers have visited Permet but, which is precisely why I went to inform you all about it. I am hoping you experience this detailed information!
Why seek advice from Permet?
Permet is a low-key and under-the-radar go back and forth vacation spot the place you’ll be able to experience a number of epic nature actions and culinary highlights. I cherished those sights particularly:
- Situated in the midst of the brand new Vjosa Wild River Nationwide Park, you’ll be able to benefit from the Vjosa river for lazy days by means of the river or an action-packed rafting shuttle.
- There are a number of incredible hikes within the space, maximum significantly the Langarica Canyon hike, which used to be an absolute spotlight for me. I’ll be gushing about it in a second!
- Permet could also be profiling itself as a sluggish meals vacation spot, making the most of the various in the community produced cheeses, meats, honey, and candies. It’s the very best position to pattern conventional Albanian meals in some of the many comfortable tavern-style eating places.
Something no longer to be expecting is a few roughly deeply historic the city. Sure, there’s a small phase of historic streets with stone homes to the again of Permet, however truthfully it’s somewhat unremarkable. It almost definitely simply will get discussed to pad out the ‘issues to do’ lists.
Regardless of no longer having a historic aesthetic, Permet remains to be pleasant. It has a flower-filled park by means of the riverbank and a snug middle that turns into absolutely pedestrianized at night time. It’s no longer overly touristy however has simply sufficient eating places, cafes, and native excursion corporations to verify a very easy keep.
From a drone’s standpoint (or noticed from the highest of the Town Stone) town doesn’t all the time have absolute best appears, revealing most commonly a jumble of high-rise residences. However… I simplest point out this as a result of as of late’s Instagram-driven go back and forth tradition. Make no mistake, town is in fact moderately lovely and interesting at floor degree, particularly round the principle sq.. Don’t let a zoomed-out drone shot provide the improper influence!
Situated simply an hour from Gjirokastër, it’s a very easy day shuttle — and there are such a large amount of cool issues to do that I utterly suggest it. Alternatively, I feel Permet is value staying in a single day to revel in it absolutely. For those who occur to be for your approach to/from Korçë, Permet might be a handy prevent for your approach. Differently, it could be a slight detour for your Albania itinerary.
I stayed for 4 nights so I may just create this detailed information, however I might generally suggest 2 or 3 nights when you plan to do any rafting or climbing.
The place to stick in Permet
First issues first: I wish to give a particular shoutout right here to Honey Area Kastrioti. That is the guesthouse I stayed at, and it added an entire different size to my delight in Permet. For those who’re on the lookout for some conventional circle of relatives hospitality, glance no additional!
Honey Home is a brief strolling distance from the centre but scenically situated at the fringe of the city going through the river. At an extended wood desk below a tree with perspectives of the wild Vjosa river, I used to be served a yummy home made breakfast each day that integrated recent bread, end result, yoghurt, and a kind of Albanian pancake.
Many components come directly from the lawn and one of the crucial wild herbs are even harvested in my opinion by means of the landlord all the way through his early morning mountain hikes. The homeowners also are beekeepers so you’ll be able to experience some superb home made wildflower honey together with your yoghurt each day. It doesn’t get extra native than this!
I strongly suggest reserving a keep at Kastrioti and Marinella’s glorious guesthouse. It has half of a dozen excellent high quality and blank rooms, however what in reality makes it particular is the nice and cozy hospitality and the beneficiant native wisdom they’re going to thankfully percentage.
Honey Area is among the highest-rated choices in Permet, so I do advise reserving smartly forward. If it’s no longer to be had otherwise you’re on the lookout for a distinct form of keep, I counsel the next possible choices:
I did my rafting with Funky and may just take a look at their adjacent guesthouse. They provide comfortable rooms and feature an on-site bar and excursion company providing rafting and horseriding excursions.
fashionable penthouse condo
$$
Trendy and fashionable penthouse condo with personal balcony deck providing expansive perspectives of the mountains. Absolute best when you’re on the lookout for personal lodging however one thing a bit of extra polished than an ordinary guesthouse
easiest lodge you’ll be able to in finding in Permet
$$$
For extra of a polished lodge revel in, then that is my most sensible advice. Situated within the small outdated a part of the city, this elegantly renovated historical stone villa is the place you will have to opt for a top class keep only a 5 minute stroll from town sq..
Hikes & trails
Permet provides a number of superb climbing probabilities, with the off-trail hike by way of Langarica Canyon being most likely my favourite in Albania after the northern Alps. Let me talk about it first prior to detailing a number of different profitable hikes.
Langarica Canyon hike
This hike takes you directly right into a deep river gorge and is sort of perpetually shocking. I spark off within the morning when the stark shadows and crossing mild rays made the steep cliffs glance much more spectacular.
At 8 AM, there have been virtually no people, so all I may just pay attention used to be the gently rippling water and the chatter of birds reverberating in the course of the an increasing number of slender areas.
It used to be natural zen.
For those who’d love to take only a fast have a look at Langarica Canyon, you’ll be able to practice the river upstream and after simply 10 to fifteen mins you’ll see one of the crucial maximum spectacular rocky partitions and escarpments. The gorge is situated simply north of the thermal springs of Bënjë, so you’ll be able to simply mix each actions at the similar shuttle.
However when you’re up for somewhat of journey, then it’s extremely value climbing additional upstream for every other hour or two. A number of sections function expansive rocky partitions, others function slender, easy and undulating eroded surfaces.
The other nooks, crannies, or even some ivy-covered overhangs gave off a undeniable ‘Indiana Jones’ vibe every now and then.
The climbing problem will rely so much at the water degree.
I will have to point out that traversing this canyon can turn out to be a light type of canyoning: some clambering or even some swimming would possibly turn into essential as you cross deeper. It’s easiest to carry sneakers that may get rainy (one thing robust, no longer flipflops) as you steadily wish to move over to the opposite facet. In a single case, I needed to buckle down and do waters achieving my hips.
BEWARE: Flash floods are an actual possibility in river canyons. Vacationers have wanted rescue right here all the way through heavy rains (June 2023, August 2025). Best hike when it’s been dry with out a rain forecast and ask locals about present stipulations.
For what it’s value, I did this all the way through a dry length in July. It used to be all the way through a heatwave, so the herbal shading and funky water made this hike a lot more delightful than ones within the complete solar. After about two hours of climbing, I grew to become again the best way I got here, however I heard that on the 3-hour level, you are going to succeed in a dam, letting you turn to the higher canyon path (described within the subsequent phase).
Personally, the hike isn’t essentially so difficult that you want to equipment up for it with wetsuits and all. Alternatively, it’s possible you’ll really feel extra at ease doing it with a guided canyoning excursion, a extra legitimate and more secure approach to cross and a excellent choice for households or teams.
See ‘Getting Round’ for main points on easy methods to get to the trailhead.
with a information? If you wish to do that hike with a information and correct canyoning equipment, I discovered one excursion operator offering the sort of guided canyon revel in. It’s a 5-hour guided hike by way of canyon terrain and caves, and it comprises the thermal springs.
Higher Langarica hike
If you want to see the gorge from a distinct standpoint then you’ll be able to practice the higher direction that permits you to hike in a circle round it. I didn’t do that myself to keep away from the total solar all the way through the heatwave, however my host confirmed me pictures from his many journeys up there in addition to directions on easy methods to do it.
It begins and ends on the Benji thermal baths; you simply have to head up, moderately than into the gorge. The trail is straightforward to practice particularly if in case you have a map app similar to Maps.me, which will even point out a number of nice viewpoints alongside the best way.
A footbridge permits you to move over the gorge and then you’ll circle again at the different facet. You’ll see much less of the gorge from the upper vantage level, however you’ll be able to practice common paths the entire approach.
Hike up the Town Stone
Ok, this isn’t precisely a hike — simply a stroll and hiking some stairs — however it’s a excellent warmup and one thing you’ll almost definitely wish to do anyway whilst in Permet.
The Permet Stone is a 42-meter excessive rock formation and an emblem of town. It overlooks the Vjosa river at the fringe of the city, giving nice perspectives of the valley and mountains. A couple of crumbled partitions of an historical construction from the 4th to sixth centuries nonetheless persist.
Merely walk alongside the flower park street by means of the river and make the simple climb upstairs. It’s a ravishing spot to benefit from the sundown.
Hike to the Church of Leus
It is a amusing shorter hike, taking at maximum 1 ½ hours (there and again). It offers you beautiful perspectives of Permet and the valley and leads to a hamlet with outdated stone homes the place you’ll be able to seek advice from a small 18th-century Orthodox church.
The path begins in Permet, so that you don’t must go back and forth anyplace to start your hike, making this a pleasing snackable process no longer requiring a lot preplanning.
That mentioned, I like to recommend doing this hike prior to 11am if you wish to have a look within this church, as a result of later within the day its doorways could also be closed. I’ve heard that locals across the church might be able to open the door for you if requested, however I went within the morning once I may just simply stroll in.
The internal options some decayed however stunning post-Byzantine frescoes painted the standard colour scheme ruled by means of vibrant blues, reds, and gold main points. The weblog Wander Lush did an exquisite writeup of this hike which you’ll be able to take a look at for additional main points.
There’s one guesthouse in Leuse, the Chri Chri Visitor Area, will have to you wish to have to stick someplace in nature this is nonetheless very just about Permet.
You’ll in finding the trailhead right here. Leuse is signposted, even though you received’t pass over it as this dust highway has just one vacation spot.
Hike to Sopot waterfall
It is a hike I tried and in the long run aborted, however I wish to percentage the preliminary main points right here so you will have higher success than I did.
I’d been proven pictures of the trail-end on the base of the mountains that have been somewhat attractive. Alternatively, I used to be undecided of the proper direction so I headed again early (I used to be solo, so higher protected than sorry).
It begins within the hamlet of Strembec, however to get there by means of automobile it’s a must to practice a slender and adventurous dust highway and traverse a fairly questionable wood bridge. The little village has a number of abandoned-looking farmhouses. After passing those, the path were given tougher for me to discern and it used to be steadily obstructed by means of spiderwebs and prickly crops, so I determined to show round.
I may have neglected one thing obtrusive, but when you wish to have to take a look at this off the overwhelmed direction hike I counsel learning the course information on-line or most likely the use of a information. Whilst the waterfall itself doesn’t appear too spectacular, the hike is in fact a lot more about achieving the towering cirque glaciers (bowl-shaped glacial cliffs) on the base of the mountain, that have been the principle motivation for me to head.
You’ll discover nature on horseback in Permet with a half-day or full-day journey taking you by way of meadows, forests, and historical stone villages.
Whilst I didn’t have time left to try this, I strongly counsel this as an authentic approach to discover the valley but even so climbing. Simply have a look at the pictures to look what I imply! Appropriate for amateur or skilled riders.
Water actions in Permet
River rafting
One of the simplest ways to benefit from the Vjosa river is to paddle alongside it. Rafting is what has tentatively put Permet at the ecotourism map with a couple of corporations providing rafting journeys every now and then during the day.
If rafting turns out a bit of too action-packed for you, I will have to point out that the river is in fact very calm in summer time. There are just a few actual rapids to overcome, so call to mind this revel in extra as kick back river tubing or kayaking than some excessive sports activities process.
In truth, a number of sections are calm and deep sufficient for swimming, so right here you’ll be able to disembark the paddleboat and waft or swim beside it for some time. There’s additionally a prevent about halfway the place you’ll be able to leisure or soar into the waters from a cliff.
The rafting is most commonly Elegance II (with a Elegance III right here and there), that means it’s most commonly simple to navigate with occasional motion. The teacher will inform you precisely what to do as a gaggle, so so long as you’ll be able to practice the instructions ‘left’, ‘proper’, and ‘prevent’ you will have to be golden. It’s tremendous amusing and appropriate for a large target audience together with youngsters.
On my shuttle we have been two times given the choice for a slower or sooner course by way of a fast. Every time we selected the latter, choosing up pace or even doing a small “boof” (a practical bump towards a rock) for some added pleasure.
Alternatively, the largest scream in fact got here when a really massive cicada (the dimensions of 1’s palm) landed unexpectedly on anyone’s shoulder. You by no means know what surprises nature has in retailer.
The standard rafting excursion takes about 3 hours together with a brief bus journey to the drop-off level. I did mine with Funky Visitor Area whose information used to be tremendous pleasant and funny. For those who guide this rafting excursion on GetYourGuide you are going to be rafting with Funky — it’s the precise excursion I did and which I like to recommend.
The rafting season lasts kind of from Might to October.
River rafting and climbing round Permet is among the absolute best techniques to benefit from the still-developing Vjosa Wild River Nationwide Park.
This distinctive nationwide park protects all the Vjosa River like a large ribbon operating by way of southern Albania, making sure that nature is secure and no hydroelectric dams might be constructed. You’ll learn extra in regards to the park’s introduction at Patagonia or this Nationwide Geographic tale.
In 2025, it nonetheless turns out just like the early days for this new nationwide park. There are plans to create new climbing trails (together with a regional multi-day through-hike), advertise 20 small villages, and expand sustainable tourism no longer simplest in Permet however in different places.
There in reality isn’t a lot tourism infrastructure but even though and for now Permet is the only position that turns out maximum able for guests. With a bit of luck within the coming years I will replace this submit with extra go back and forth choices across the Vjosa.
Bënja thermal springs
A number of small scorching spring swimming pools shape a key enchantment right here for Albanians and international vacationers alike. But even so being very easily heat at round 28°C, the waters are believed to have therapeutic homes.
Upon my arrival, an Albanian pensioner in an instant started gushing at me about simply how nice it’s for arthritis and different diseases. “Water excellent. Reumatizma, no! Water excellent. Pores and skin, excellent!”, a minimum of in step with my native supply.
Without or with arthritis, it’s amusing to head for a dip and experience some nice perspectives of the traditional Ottoman Bridge inbuilt 1760. You’ll additionally move slowly into a bit of cavern close to the foot of the bridge from the place you’ll be able to take a fab image of the bridge framed by means of cave partitions. The principle pool is beside the bridge however when you cross somewhat additional upstream you’ll in finding a couple of extra smaller ones.
Convey snacks or beverages when you plan to spend a while right here as there may be not anything right here aside from a car park. (Despite the fact that in 2025 a construction is being constructed that appears to turn into a restaurant or store.)
See ‘Getting Round’ for main points on easy methods to get right here.
Swimming within the river
The best way to benefit from the wild Vjosa is to easily cool off within the waters. Once I visited in early summer time, the temperatures have been gently refreshing and absolute best on a heat day. (As a sidenote, that is somewhat other from sure different Balkan rivers. I have in mind just about freezing my pores and skin off within the icy waters in Mostar, Bosnia!)
You must put your ft within the river immediately from Permet; there’s a direction close to the Town Stone the place you’ll be able to succeed in the river degree on foot. But even so this I counsel going to the village of Petran, midway against the Bënja scorching springs.
Right here on the confluence of the Vjosa and Langarica river you’ve a pleasing extensive phase the place you’ll be able to kick back and the place youngsters can play if in case you have little ones in tow. At Bar Eating place Alvi, you’ll be able to sit down for lunch or grasp some beverages to head, and you’ll be able to discover the wood footbridge to the opposite riverbank.
If in case you have your individual transportation you’ll be able to additionally cross round and in finding different appropriate spots alongside the river. Additional away, the Kanikol bridge makes for every other scenic swimming spot.
Word: those two pics are from the Petran swimming spot:
Sluggish meals & drink
If the entire climbing and rafting has were given you drained and hungry, be troubled no longer, as a result of Permet has some incredible eating choices so that you can fill up and recharge.
A number of eating places on the town even joined the Sluggish Meals motion fascinated about selling native meals and standard cooking. Imagine Trifilia and Te Culi the place you’ll be able to take a look at conventional dishes like filled lamb or aspects like dollma (rice and herbs wrapped in vine leaves).
Since I used to be backpacking solo I wasn’t looking for refined eating each day, however I discovered Sofra Përmetare to be an exquisite informal and budget-friendly choice for Albanian fare. Ensure that to take a look at conventional clay pot dishes like Tave Dheu, or Te Mbushura (filled peppers).
Permet could also be identified for its natural and standard merchandise, together with cheeses, wildflower honeys, and a candy referred to as Gliko Permeti which you’ll be able to in finding made with walnuts, plum, cherry, and different components.
The fiery liquor referred to as Raki is in style right here too, with the native model referred to as Raki Permeti. It similarly is available in many types, being created from plums, grapes, mulberry, and different end result.
Getting round Permet
Transportation choices are fairly restricted on this small the city, however the important thing spots are simple sufficient to seek advice from. You’ll get to the thermal baths and within reach hikes by means of taxi or bus.
Public shipping
Some taxis will also be hailed from round the principle sq. which allow you to quilt shorter distances. There aren’t a lot of them even though so you’ll have to be affected person or ask your lodging to name one.
There could also be a handy commute bus immediately to the Bënja thermal springs and the Langarica canyon. For those who’re on the cheap or in Permet with out your individual wheels, then that is your journey.
It leaves within the morning at 8am from this precise pickup level. There are two go back journeys: one at 12.30 and one at 17.00.
For those who cross with an arranged excursion then you definately received’t have to fret in regards to the timetables.
Automobile condominium
I most often like having my very own wheels to discover independently, however in order that you already know the choices for this are fairly restricted in Permet. I’d noticed some vloggers journey round on electrical scooters however I couldn’t discover a position to hire them in my view — simplest as a part of an expensive day excursion. I additionally appeared for a motorcycle scooter condominium and couldn’t in finding any, however most likely you’ll have higher success.
There are not any legitimate emblem title automobile leases in Permet, even though you’ll be able to nonetheless hire a automobile when you don’t thoughts doing it by way of a neighborhood trade. There’s a desk bound store on the town that doubles as a automobile condominium, providing common and offroad 4×4 automobiles.
The older guy who runs the store doesn’t discuss English, so he’ll ask you to put in writing him on WhatsApp so he can respond to you with Google Translate, however it’s a lovely simple procedure. The condominium contract might be between you and a non-public particular person moderately than an organization.
My automobile had a couple of years on it and several other caution lighting fixtures did get started blinking on my dashboard whilst I used to be already deep into the valley. I texted the landlord and used to be given an excessively Balkan-style answer: “Forget about. Is okay, no drawback.” To their credit score, the auto drove completely effective, simply be expecting a somewhat artisanal native automobile condominium and no longer a extra polished undertaking.
Aerial view of a small Orthodox church with a terracotta roof and bell tower by means of the Vjosa River, flowing by way of rocky plains, with a steep mountain emerging within the background close to Tepelena.
Roads to discover
As for the place to head on a highway shuttle, I first headed south against Greece. The street will get narrower and quieter the additional you get from Permet, winding its approach by way of grand mountain surroundings. Don’t pass over the Vjosa river bend viewing level and different great perspectives alongside the best way. There will not be too many sights down on this valley, however the force itself is very rewarding.
I additionally drove west to town of Tepelenë, however to be truthful this wasn’t so outstanding. Its citadel isn’t noteworthy (it’s only some partitions) and in spite of town being somewhat scenically situated there isn’t anything else to do in Tepelenë.
I point out this simply to probably keep away from losing time exploring on this path. I’ve heard Tepelenë might be evolved into another tourism hub, however so far as I may just inform there isn’t a lot there but.
You’ll additionally force north over the mountain move to Osumi Canyon. I haven’t finished this however met some travellers who did, who raved about their superb off-path journey. Simply take into account the street from Permet is really a backroad requiring a four-wheel force for no less than half of of the best way.
Google Maps will in fact refuse to create any routes between Permet and Osumi, so imagine this actually off the overwhelmed direction. (Google Maps and Apple Maps are usually very deficient in Albania; I extremely suggest the use of an OpenStreetMap-based app like Maps.me which is able to in fact display the smaller dust roads and paths!)
Attending to/from Permet
From Tirana: In line with the oft-cited website online Gjirafa Shuttle, there are more than a few day-to-day connections, but if I went to search for one it didn’t in fact appear to exist. Consulting native in-person assets for shipping information is steadily nonetheless a good suggestion in Albania.
I took a furgon (casual minibus) immediately from Tirana to Permet. There’s a minimum of one scheduled furgon in line with day leaving from Tirana’s central bus station at round 3pm, even though I in fact controlled to catch a random one passing the road in entrance of the bus station round 10am. The shuttle value 1200 LEK.
To/from Gjirokaster: That is the very best soar to make, the shuttle taking simplest about 70 mins or so and with many choices during the day. The UNESCO International Heritage indexed the city of Gjirokaster is a significant vacationer enchantment so from/to there you’ll be able to simply hook up with different puts in Albania.
Onward go back and forth: It can be easiest to invite your lodge, the vacationer data centre, or to stroll to the Permet bus prevent within the morning and easily take a look at your furgon choices. I in fact don’t really feel very assured record timetables for Albania… issues most often aren’t so formalized and on-line timetables aren’t so dependable in my revel in.
I used to be heading to the Albanian Riviera subsequent and located furgons to Sarandë and Vlore leaving between 9 and 10am from Permet.
So there you’ve it: the whole thing you want to grasp for a seek advice from to Permet. Whilst the thermal baths and culinary highlights take the highlight in maximum guides to Permet, as you’ll be able to inform it used to be the climbing and river actions that I in my opinion were given serious about essentially the most.
I imagine Permet a ravishing hidden gem to seek advice from, and doing so will lend your make stronger to the sustainable tourism style this is setting up across the Vjosa Wild River Nationwide Park. The character-focused Permet pairs really well with the extra historic Gjirokaster, no longer too a long way from it, so remember to additionally learn my go back and forth information to Gjirokaster for an entire image for exploring this area.
